ife in the city of Varanasi revolves around its over one hundred Ghats (river landings). The River Ganga flows from north to south, and the city forms a circular shape from the Asi ghat in the south up to the confluence of the Varuna river with the Ganga. Thousands of pilgrims come to bathe and worship in the river at the first light of dawn. Boat rides down the river in the morning are a very popular excursion.

Most of the ancient temples and structures along the ghats have been destroyed. What remain are mainly 18th and 19th century buildings. A very important pilgrimage for the devout is the Panchatirtha Yatra, a tour covering the 5 important ghats of Asi, Dashashwamedha, Adi Keshava, Panchganga and Manikarnika. The Panchkosi road, beginning from the Asi ghat and ending at the Manikarnika ghat denotes the sacred area of Kashi. A tour around this 58 km route takes about 6 days on foot. Each of the important ghats has a lingam.

A.B.C. Art Gallery : Prabhu Astha (Opp. Tulsi Manas Temple), Durgakund. Holds exhibitions of contemporary art, mainly paintings, open only during the winter season i.e. October to March. Opening times: 3.00-7.00 p.m. Tel : 310434, 310967. Entry Free.

Alamgir Mosque : Popularly known as Beni Madhav Ka Darera, was originally a Vishnu temple, and is now a mix of Hindu and Mughal styles of architecture worth seeing.

Annapurna Temple : Located next to the Vishwanath temple was built in the 18th century by Peshwa Baji Rao I. The idol of Annapurna Bhavani (the provider of food), a benevolent form of Shakti, made in solid gold and carrying a cooking pot is housed here. There is also a striking silver-faced image of Shani (Saturn) within the temple. Shani is feared for his destructive powers and is propitiated to prevent any ill befalling the devout.

Archaeological Museum : Located in Sarnath. The main attraction at this excellent archaeological museum is the superb Ashokan pillar. It has the Ashokan symbol of four back-to-back lions which has been adopted as the state symbol of modern India. Other finds from the site include many figures and sculptures from the various periods of Saranath - Mauryan, Kushana, Gupta and later. Among them is the earliest Buddha image found at Sarnath, Buddha figures in various positions dating back to the 5th and 6th centuries, and many images of Hindu gods such as Saraswati, Ganesh and Vishnu from the 9th to 12th centuries. The museum is open from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. daily, closed on Fridays. Archaeological Musuem, Sampurnanand Sanskrit University open 10 am to 5 pm. Closed on Sundays and university holidays.

Benares Hindu University : Founded by the great nationalist Pandit Malaviya in 1917 as a centre for education in Indian art, music, culture and philosophy, and for the study of Sanskrit and attracts students both from India and abroad. The five sq km campus houses the Bharat Kala Bhavan which has a fine collection miniature paintings and sculptures from the 1st to 15th centuries and old photographs of Varanasi. It's open from 11 am to 4.30 pm (7.30 am to 12.30 pm in May and June) but is closed on Sunday.

Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum : Lies within the sprawling grounds of Banaras Hindu University. Its outstanding collection of sculpture, painting and textiles began with the private collection of the enlightened Rai Krishnadasa. Ancient terracotta varing from ritual icons to toys to utilitarian objects date to the Indus Valley Civilisation, Mauryan, Sunga and Gupta periods. Among the stone sculptures are red sandstone reliefs from the 2nd century B.C, a Buddhist stupa at Bharhut and rare images and statues from well known schools like Gandhara, which saw the synthesis of Greek and Indian styles and Mathura, a powerful art centre during the Kushana period. The large and impressive collection of textiles contain precious example of Banaras silk and brocades, embroidered shawls from Kashmir and the rare Chamba rumals, once used to wrap ceremonial gifts and offering were richly embroidered pieces with designs and stories from the life of Krishna.

Bharat Mata Temple : Dedicated to 'Mother India', this unadorned temple has a marble relief map of India instead of usual images of gods and goddesses. The map is said to be perfectly in scale, both vertically and horizontally and the place was opened by Mahatma Gandhi.

Dharmarajika Stupa : The 110ft tall Damekh Stupa marks the place where Buddha preached first sermon. Sarnath has been a premier centre for Buddhism.It is a rich collection of ancient Buddhist relics and antiques comprising numerous Buddha and Bodhisatva images on display at the Archaeological Museum.

Durga Temple : One of the most important temples in Varanasi and is built in the 8th century, by Bengali Maharani and is stained red with ochre. This temple is built in north Indian Nagara style with a multi-tiered shikhara (spire). The shikhara of the temple is formed by many small spires which are built one on top of the other. Durga is the 'terrible' form of Shiva's consort Parvati, so at festivals there are often sacrifices of goats. Non-Hindus can enter the courtyard but not the inner sanctum. It is commonly known as Monkey Temple due to many frisky monkeys that have made it their home.

Government Museum : The rich treasure of antiquarian values unearthed by Cunnigham, Growse, Fuhrer and others formed the nucleus of this museum. The museum was founded by the collector, F.S. Growse in 1874. The collections were shifted to the present building in 1930. Regional in character its scope was limited primarily to the archeological finds from the Mathura region. The vast collection includes stone sculptures, bas reliefs, architectural fragments, inscriptions of various faiths and creeds, coins, terracotta, inscribed bricks, pottery pieces, clay seals, bronze objects and paintings. The museum has the richest and by far the most important collection of the Mathura School of Sculptures of 3rd century B.C - 12th century A.D.

Great Mosque of Aurangzeb : The mosque has minarets towering 71m above the Ganges and was constructed using columns from the Bineswar temple razed by Aurangzeb worth seeing.

Gyanvapi Mosque : 4.8km from the railway station, this Mosque was constructed by Emperor Aurangzeb on the ruins of an ancient temple. Rare specimens of ancient temple art are still evident in the foundation and at the rear of the mosque.

Jantar Mantar : The ruler of Jaisingh built an observatory in Varanasi in line with those built in Delhi, Mathura, Ujjain and Jaipur observatories. The Varanasi observatory has all the instruments which were required to record the motion, speed and properties of various stars and planets and other cosmic objects. The observatory was built in 1600 and still the instruments give the exact measurements which can match any modern instrument today.

Jateshwar Mahadev : This temple in Karnaghata, houses a black stone statue of Shiva and has tantric overtones. Locals believe that a devotee must offer his prayers here, before going to Vishwanath Temple.

Kaal Bhairav Temple : Situated in Visheswarganj, Bhairaon Nath this temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. There are nine other Bhairav temples in the city. Some important ones include Chandi Bhairav, near Durga Temple; Batuk Bhairav, Kamachha and Rucha Bhairav, near Hanuman Ghat.

Kashi-Vishwanath Temple : Situated 3.8km from the railway station, near the ghats, the is the most sacred of the shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva, the patron deity of Varanasi. (Originally constructed by Rani Ahillya Bai Holkar in 1776, it was reconstructed in the 18th century and its gold plating on the 'shikharas' was a gift of the one-eyed Sikh King, Maharaja Ranjit Singh). It is also popularly known as the Golden Temple. Non Hindus are not allowed inside the temple.

Man Mandir (Manmandir) Palace : The archeological survey of India (ASI) has rediscovered the art behind the science of Man Mandir, the third observatory by the creator of Jantar Mantar, hidden for decades under a coat of crude lime plaster. The palace was built by Raja (King) Man Singh of Amber (Rajasthan) and the observatory houses five astronomical instruments for the study of the heavenly bodies.

Maha Mritunjaya Temple : Devoted to the God of Death. Devotees are not allowed to touch the Shivalinga here. A fair is held here in June-July.

Nandeshwari Kothi : Designed by James Prinsep is a typical building of the early 19th century in Benaras.

Nepali Temple : Situated on Lalita Ghat, was constructed by the late King of Nepal. Made of wood brought from Nepal, the walls have exquisite and lively carvings. Also known locally as 'mini Khajuraho'.

Pandit Malaviya Temple : Pandit Malaviya wished to see Hinduism revived without its caste distinctions and prejudices - accordingly, unlike many temples in Varanasi, this temple is open to all, irrespective of caste or religion. The interior has a Siva lingam and verses from Hindu scriptures inscribed on the walls and is supposed to be a replica of the earlier Vishwanath Temple destroyed by Aurangazeb. It's open between 4 am and noon, and 1 and 9 pm.

Ram Nagar Fort and Museum : This 17th century fort is the home of the former Maharaja of Benaras. It looks most impressive from the river, though the decrepit planking of the pontoon bridge you cross to reach it is somewhat of a distraction. During the monsoon access is by ferry. The interesting museum here contains old silver and brocade palanquins for the ladies of the court, gold-plated elephant howdahs, an astrological clock, macabre elephant traps and an armoury of swords and old guns.

River Fronts The most fascinating aspect of Varanasi is the life on the river ghats at dawn. As the first rays of the sun set the gently flowing Ganga afire, people flock here in large numbers every day to take bath and worship in the temples built beside the river bank. The centuries old tradition of offering puja to the rising sun is still maintained.

Sarnath : About 10km from Varanasi, is Sarnath, where lord Buddha gave his first sermon after enlightenment or as the Buddhist say set the 'wheel of dharma' or law rolling. Today Sarnath is considered as one of the best places to buy antiques from the Ashoka period to the 12th century. The Dharmarajika stupa here was built by Ashoka and is surmounted by a pillar. This pillar with four lions today forms the national emblem of India. Sarnath has many ruins of monasteries and stupas worth seeing and an extremely rich collection of Buddhist statues kept in the Archaeological Museum of Sarnath.

St. Mary's Church : Situated in the cantonment area of Benaras (Varanasi) the St. Mary's Church has a low tower, spire and projecting portico. Instead of windows the church has louvred doors to the sides and hooded ventilation slots beneath the cornice.

Tulsi Manas Temple : A short walk south of the Durga Temple is the modern marble sikhara-style Tulsi Manas Temple, built in 1964. Its walls are engraved with verses and scenes from the Ram Charit Manas, the Hindi version of the Ramayana. Its author, poet Tulsi Das, lived here while writing it. You can watch figures performing scenes from Hindu mythology on the 2nd floor for a small fee. The temple is open from 5.30 am to noon and 3.30 to 9 pm daily.

Viswanath Temple (New) : This temple is situated in the premises of the university and has 'Geeta' engraved in its marble walls. It's about a 30 minute walk from the gates of the university to the New Vishwanath Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple is the most sacred shrine in Varanasi. The original temple was destroyed by the Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb which was later restored by Rani Ahilyabai of Indore in the 18th century. The Gold plating of the dome was done during the 19th century by Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab. The original temple is said to have been over 1000 years old. The Gyan Vapi tank enclosed in a hall is said to contain the original shivalingam. Pilgrims offer prayers here before embarking on the Panchatirtha. Note: The temple is closed to non-Hindus, but can be viewed from shops across the road.

Ghats consist of steps leading down to the river and the best time to visit is at dawn, when pilgrims take their morning dip. There are over 100 ghats in all and one of the better ways in which to really experience them is to catch a boat and go for a cruise along the river. One can see the women bathing discreetly in their saris, young men doing yoga exercises, priests offering blessings and on the slightly gory side, for those interested, you will come across a number of burning ghats where bodies are cremated of which Manikarnika and Harishchandra are the main centres. Each of the important ghats have a lingam (phallic symbol of lord Shiva) which is venerated by the devout. We mention not all but only the most well known or popular ones below. Unfortunately little information has been found on a number of these other than the fact that they are worth seeing, therefore of any visitors have anything to add, please send us the information so that we can share it with future travellers.

Adi Keshava Ghat : On the outskirts of the city is the point where the river Varuna meets the Ganga. The ghat is completely submerged during the rainy season. This is the original site of the city, where Vishnu is believed to have landed as an emissary of lord Shiva.

Assi Ghat : This is one of the five special ghats which pilgrims are supposed to bathe at in sequence during the ritual route called Panchatirthi Yatra. There is a lingam under a peepal tree and a marble temple of Asisangameshwara (lord of the confluence of Asi). An ancient tank dedicated to sun worship, the Lolarka Kund (pool) lies 15 metres below the ground and is approached by a steep flight of steps worth seeing.

Bachraj Ghat : Jain and there are three riverbank Jain Temples here. Many ghats are owned by Maharajas or other princely rulers, such as the very fine Shivala Ghat owned by the maharaja of Varanasi.

Chauki Ghat to Chaumsathi Ghat : Northwards along the river, Chauki Ghat is distinguished by an enormous tree that shelters small stones shrines to the nagas, water-snake deities, while at the unmistakable Dhobi (Laundrymen’s) Ghat clothes are still rhythmically pulverized in the pursuit of purity. Past smaller ghats such as Mansarovar Ghat, named after the holy lake in Tibet, and Narada Ghat, honouring the divine musician and sage, lies Chaumsathi Ghat, where impressive stone steps lead up to the small temple of the Chaumsathi (64) Yoginis. Images of Kali and Durga in its inner sanctum represent a stage in the emergence of the great goddess as a single representation of a number of female divinities. Overlooking the ghats here is Peshwa Amrit Rao’s majestic sandstone haveli (mansion), built in 1807 and currently used for religious ceremonies and occasionally, as an auditorium for concerts.

Chausathi Ghat has a shrine dedicated to Chausath Yoginis, the multiple manifestations of the female force Durga.

Dandi Ghat : ghat of ascetics also known as Dandi Panths. The spartan Hanuman ghat is used by wrestlers and body builders for whom Bajrangbali (Hanuman) is the patron God.

Dasaswamedh (Dashashwamedha) Ghat : Offers a splendid view of the river front. The name indicates that Brahma sacrificed (medh) 10 (das) horses (aswa) here. Conveniently central it's one of the most important and busiest ghats and therefore is a good place to linger and soak up the atmosphere. Note its status and the shrine of Sitala, goddess of smallpox. Boats can be hired at this ghat for a tour of the riverfront. It is also the most popular site for Hindus to perform ancestor worship rituals, and the entire ghat is lined with umbrella covered stalls where Brahmin priests undertake pujas (worship).

Dattatreya Ghat : Bears the footprint of a Brahmin saint of the same name in a small temple nearby.

Dhobi Ghat : used purely for the washing of clothing and could be called the local laundry.

Harishchandra (Smashan or Samshan) Ghat : A secondary burning ghat and one of the oldest ghats in city.

Hanuman Ghat : The site of a new temple built by the ghat’s large south Indian community. Considered by many to be the birth place of the fifteenth-century Vaishnavite saint Vallabha, who was instrumental in the resurgence of the worship of Krishna, the ghat also features a striking image of Ruru, the dog Bhairava, a ferocious and early form of Shiva and is popular.

Kendra Ghat Kedar Ghat : This ghat is a popular shrine with Bengalis and South Indians. A little below is the Gauri (Parvati) kund whose waters have healing properties. Here a red-and-white-striped temple houses the Kedareshvara lingam, an outcrop of black rock shot through with a vein of white. Mythologically related to Kedarnath in the Himalayas, Kedara and its ghat become a hive of activity during the sacred month of Sravana (July/Aug), the month of the rains.

Lalita Ghat : Well known for its Nepali style temple with an idol of Pashupateshwara. This ghat also has a temple dedicated to the river Ganga.

Manikarnika Ghat : one of the oldest and most sacred in Varanasi, Manikarnika is the main burning ghat and one of most auspicious places that a Hindu can be cremated. Bodies are handled by outcasts known as doms, and they are carried through alleyways of the old city to the holy Ganges on a bamboo stretcher swathed in cloth. The corpse is doused in the Ganges prior to cremation. You will see huge piles of firewood stacked along the top of the ghat, each log carefully weighed on giant scales so that the price of cremation can be calculated. Note: Visitors are welcome to watch the cremations, since at Manikarnika death is simply business as usual, but don't take photos and keep your camera well hidden.

Manmandir (Man Mandir) Ghat : Built in 1600 and was poorly restored in the 19th century. The northern corner of the ghat has a fine stone balcony which the Raja Jai Singh of Jaipur erected during one of his unusual observations at the ghat in 1710. Built by Maharaja Man Singh of Amer, there are numerous instruments used for astronomical calculations here and it is open to visitors from 09:30 am till 05:30 pm. The Dom Raja’s house is next door, with painted tigers flanking the terrace. Doms are the untouchables, who handle the corpses at cremation grounds. Though the Doms belong to a lower caste, their services are invaluable for the dead to be released from their physical bonds and so the leader of the doms is given the title of `Raja’ or king.

Mansarowar Ghat : Built by Raja Man Singh of Amber and named after the Tibetan lake at the foot of Mt. Kailash, Shiva's Himalayan home.

Mir Ghat : A shrine to Vishalakshi (the wide-eyed goddess). It is one of the 52 pithas (pilgrimages) where the body parts of Shakti landed after a distraught Shiva performed his dance of destruction or tandava.

Munshi Ghat : Very picturesque and worth a photo if you can get one.

Narada Ghat : Honouring the divine musician and sage, lies Chaumsathi Ghat, where impressive stone steps lead up to the small temple of the Chaumsathi (64) Yoginis. Images of Kali and Durga in its inner sanctum represent a stage in the emergence of the great goddess as a single representation of a number of female divinities.

Panchganga Ghat : Where five rivers are supposed to meet. Dominating the ghat is Auangazeb's small mosque, also known as the Alamgir Mosque, which he built on the site of a large Vishnu temple erected by the Maratha chieftain Beni Madhav Rao Scindia.

Raj Ghat : The simple square platform of black marble on the banks of the river Yamuna marks the place Gandhi was cremated. His last words ' Hey Ram ' are inscribed on this platform which is surrounded by a serene garden.

Ram Ghat: Located near the Harsiddhi Temple, is considered important.

Scindia Ghat : Bordering Manikarnika to the north is the picturesque Scindia Ghat, with its titled Shiva temple lying partially submerged in the river, having fallen in as a result of the sheer weight of the ghat’s construction around 150 years ago. Above the ghat, several of Kashi’s most influential shrines are hidden within the tight maze of alleyways of the area known as Siddha Kshetra (the field of Fullfilment). Vireshvara, the Lord of all Heroes, is especially propitiated in prayer for a son; the Lord of Fire, Agni, was supposed to have been born here.

Shivata Ghat : Owned by the Maharaja of Varanasi

Trilochan Ghat : Two turrets merging from the river between which, the water is said to be especially holy.

Tulsi Ghat : Tulsidas Ghat Much of this Ghat has crumbled away; named after the famous 16th century poet Tulsidas, who spent many years here composing the Ramcharitmanas. (His manuscript, it is said, floated instead of sinking in the Ganga.) The first performance of Ramlila was held here and the house in which the poet died preserves his samadhi, idol of Hanuman which he worshipped. There is also a piece of wood from the boat used by him to cross the Ganga. A temple of Ram stands here too.

Chandra Prabha Wildlife Sanctuary : About 55 km from Varanasi Established in 1997, Chandra Prabha Sanctuary, sprawls over an area of 78 sq km and is located on Naugarh and Vijaigarh hillocks in the Vindhya forest range, in Chandauli district. Although one of India's lesser-known sanctuaries, it is well endowed with beautiful picnic spots, dense forests, and scenic waterfalls like Rajdari and Devdari that attract tourists every year to its vicinity.

Chunar Fort : About 30 to 40km from the city From their vantage point at the northern extremity of the Kaimur hills, the impressive sandstone battlements of Chunar command a meander in the Ganga before the river curves north to Varanasi. Evidence of the earliest occupation of the site dates it to Vikramaditya of Ujjain in 56 BC. Chunar sandstone has been used for centuries, most famously in Ashokan pillars and is still quarried, leaving the surrounding hills looking ravaged in places.

Jaunpur : This bustling town 58km north-west of Varanasi sees few travellers but is of interest to architectural historians for its mosques, which are built in a unique style that is part Islamic and part Hindu and Jain. Founded by Feroz Shah Tughlaq in 1360 on an ancient site, Jaunpur became the capital of the independent Muslim Sharqui kingdom. The most impressive mosques were constructed between 1394 and 1478. They were built on ruins of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain temples and shrines, and are notable for their odd mixture of architectural styles, their two storey arcades and large gateways, and their unusual minarets. The modest but well-maintained Jaunpur Fort, built by Feroz Shah in 1360, overlooks the Gomti River. Continue 500m north of here and you come to the Atala Masjid, built in 1408 on the site of a Hindu temple dedicated to Atala Devi. Another 500m north-west is the largest and most impressive of the mosques, the Jama Masjid, built between 1438 and 1478. Other places to see include the Jhanjhri Masjid, the tombs of the Sharqul sultans, the Char Ungil Masjid and the Lal Darwaza Masjid.

Kaushambi : 185km from Varanasi Mention of this town can be seen in the Mahabharata. It is said that the Pandav brothers lived here and Budhha visited many times and the gave sermons after his enlightenment in 6th and 9th century. Kaushambi developed as a major centre for Buddhism. The ruins of an old fort tell the saga of the towns antiquity.

Kaimoor Wildlife Sanctuary : about 130km from Varanasi located on the Uttar Pradesh - Bihar border, is spread over an area of 500 sq km and is well worth taking time out for. The wildlife population comprises leopard, blackbuck, chital, chinkara, ratel and peafowl. For more information contact: Divisional Forest Officer, West Mirzapur Forest Division, Mirzapur, Telephone: 52404 Kaimoor is accessible by road from Varanasi and Mirzapur. The nearet town, Robertsganj, 3 km away, is connected by bus services to major centres in the region.

Kushinagar : About 51km from Gorakhpur lies Kushinagar, a place famous for the Mahaparinirvana (death) of Lord Buddha. The town, once a celebrated centre of the Malla kingdom, has many of the stupas and viharas that date back to 230 BC–413 AD. One of the important sites to see here is the Mahaparinirvana Temple, where you can find the famous reclining statue of Buddha. The 20-feet-long statue is seated on a brick platform. Around the temple, one can find the ruins of as many as eight monasteries.

Tanda Falls : About 88km from the city is a scenic spot with dense forest and a waterfall worth taking time out for especially if you are looking for a break from the crowds.

Vindhyachal : 90 km from Varanasi There are many Shaktipeeths in India. These are the places where the Goddess of power is said to be residing and people worship her as Goddess Durga. Vindhyachal is one such peeths or abode of Shakti. The temples of Vindhyavasini Devi, Asthbhuja and Kalikhoh are a must visit here.

Wyndham Falls : About 90 km from the city is yet another picnic spot in the midst of wild surroundings.